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Travel: (Venezia) Venice, Italy

Jill's E-mail Report from Venice

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Venice is just as romantic as you've been led to believe.  It's crumbling beautifully, tragically, into the Adriatic Sea, but there's no better place for a stroll or a boat ride with the one you love.  Nancy

NEWSLETTER

Venice (October 2003)

By Nancy Kamp

Photos by Cary Kamp

click on the photos to enlarge them

Venice is probably the most theme park-esque city on the planet.  It's enchanted, crammed with tourists and even has gondola (boat) rides.

 

We arrived on a late afternoon train, walked outside of Santa Lucia Station and were smitten with water magic since the train station is also a major vaporetto (cheap bus-boat) and (expensive) water taxi station.  Fortunately, we'd chosen to stay in the nearby Cannareggio district so we set off for our hotel, wheeling our luggage behind us. 

In a very few blocks, we crossed a bridge and were scanning building numbers.  Once we realized street address numbering wrapped into alleys (paved, clean and sporting several businesses), we found our hotel, dumped the bags and hit the streets.

The streets of Venice are safe.  But always wear a money belt.

Our time in Venice was as limited as our funds.  We reserved a one day Venice Card, which we picked up the next morning in a booth in front of the train station.  This entitled us to use public bathrooms and unlimited  transportation by vaporetto and (actual) bus for 24 hours - a major bargain the next morning at 5:30 a.m. when we needed to get to the beautiful Marco Polo Airport without filing bankruptcy.  The cards also offer some museum access.  Be sure to check a current guidebook for the latest information on all the card variations before ordering.

vaporetto stop at the train station

Every sightseeing expedition to Venice rightfully begins in St. Mark's Square, the Piazza San Marco.  This is where pigeon bedecked photos are taken and where frequent floods strike first.  You'll also find the famous Caffe Florian, an indoor-outdoor café that holds evening concerts, and nearby Harry's Bar, an Ernest Hemingway favorite.  

pigeon evidence on the marble

Stacked benches in front of the clock tower (under maintenance during our October 2003 trip) are used as mini bridges when Piazza San Marco floods.  The lion-capped clock tower marks the entrance to the Rialto shopping district. 

   

St Mark's Basilica is a whirl of mosaics and treasure, including church relics and the original Greek (as in Alexander the Great's era) bronze horses that symbolize Venice as much as those ubiquitous winged lions that adorn everything including the Doge's Palace, or Palazzo Ducale, the seat of government of the Venetian Republic, which is conveniently located next door.

St Mark's Basilica

Doge's Palace / Palazzo Ducale

 

façade of St. Mark's Basilica with copies of the bronze horses braving the elements - the originals, looted from Constantinople during the Crusades, are in the cathedral museum

winged lions on the Moorish-looking Palazzo Ducale, now a major museum

   

prisoners of the Doge crossed the Bridge of Sighs on their way to jail - windows in the bridge afforded them one last glimpse of Venice
 

After a thousand years or so, the cathedral's bell tower, Campanille di San Marco, collapsed and was rebuilt in 1902.  Take the elevator to the top for wonderful views of the city and nearby islands.  But beware of deafening bells AND frigid sea air if you visit in the cooler months.  (We froze!)

 

Campanille di San Marco

two views from the Campanille

Every year on Ascension Thursday, the doge threw a gold ring into the Grand Canal as the empire / city symbolically married the sea, which had brought her so much wealth.  A great deal of that wealth went into the art that crams the churches and museums.  If your time in Venice is limited, grab a guidebook and a few art books, and decide what you want to see most.

church of Santa Maria della Salute

mural on the Palazzo Salvatti

   

sunset at the church of Il Redentore by Andrea Palladio

We took a chilly vaporetto ride to Murano, the island of the glassblowers.  I bought three, that's 3, glass beads and some mini paperweights (3€ and up), but we also found the best pizza in Italy at Panificio, Riva Longa 10, just down the canal from the bead shop, Linea Arte Vetro, Riva Longa 30. 

Turn right as you face the vaporetto stop, cross the bridge over the main canal and turn left.  Follow the canal that veers right, Riva Longa. It's not far unless your feet hurt.

mini paperweights

Murano

  Murano's bell tower

   

Restaurants - Except for that pizza in Murano, we didn't have a particularly good meal in Venice - my note on Cannaregio's Pasqualigo, Pizzeria - Ristorante, reads "not good."  Even the strawberries we bought at the produce stand near our hotel were mushy, but they were beautiful, so ...

Hotels - We stayed at Ariel Silva, a the one star hotel located at Cannaregio 1391/a (phone 39-041-720326 /71477).  It was clean - though we saw a large number of mosquito bodies on the walls, small and reasonably comfortable.  When the desk clerk wanted to charge us for a breakfast that wouldn't be served until we were on a plane to Naples, I was able to talk him out of it without much trouble. 

 

Shopping - The shops of Venice are crammed with expensive glass, incredible masks and lots of wonderful stuff.  Although I collect masks, the only ones I lusted after were 50€ and up so I passed.

mask shop in Cannaregio neighborhood

 

 

 


What's this?

 

Best Travel Sites:

Cheaptickets.com

Travel Deals at Orbitz

 

 

The Rainaldi Quartet by Paul Adam is a mystery, but also a chance to be immersed in the world of great violins.  I loved the book so much, I'm on the prowl for everything Adam has written.  Nancy

 

Venice lingers in the mind.  I can see flickers when I close my eyes that insist I go back.  And when I do, I will go with a copy of Venice in Context in hand.

This guidebook is detailed and well illustrated.  The richness of the city is echoed in this must have book, which is part of the Europe in Context series.  I've also seen the London edition and recommend that as well.   

 

And when you get home, relive the memories of your trip to Venice with Francesco's Venice by Francesco da Mosto and John Parker.  Nancy

 

If a book you're looking for is out of print, click on any link to Amazon Books Home Page, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk, or Alibris to find out if it is available as a used book.

Travel Guidebooks

Mini Book Review List

I believe the first volume in the excellent Guido Brunetti mystery series by Donna Leon is Death at La Fenice.  All I actually know is her Venetian police officer takes me into his life and through the streets and canals of a city I yearn to revisit and always gets his murderer.  And that's enough.  Nancy

 

Mystery Book Reviews

 

It's hard not to like the 2003 remake of The Italian Job, but it's been so long since I saw Don't Look Now I can only remember the vaporettos.  Still, it got great reviews as did Death in Venice, which I look forward to watching.  Nancy

PS  Yes, I know the last two were based on books. 

 

Charlize Theron

 

 

1974, Donald Sutherland

 

1971

 

 

"If every museum in the New World were emptied, if every famous building in the Old World were destroyed and only Venice saved, there would be enough there to fill a full lifetime with delight.  Venice, with all its complexity and variety, is in itself the greatest surviving work of art in the world."  Evelyn Waugh

 

 

 

 

 

More Info - http://www.venetia.it/

 

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