Gardening: Repotting Your Plants

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Repotting Plants

By Jane Marie

“Please, oh please repot me,” begged the root ball to the gardener.  “My container’s pinching my toes!”

How many times have we all heard that?  When we finally get around to listening to the cries of our leafed friends, why not give them a new home the right way.  Here’s how: 

It is time to repot when:

The roots are protruding from the top of the potting soil or the drainage holes.

T he soil dries out too quickly.

T he plant looks like it may fall over because it’s top heavy.

The ideal time to repot is in the spring or summer, but if a plant appears to need repotting at any other time of the year, go ahead and do it.

 

How to repot

If the plant is root bound, meaning an obvious abundance of roots squeezed, twisted and knotted in the container, it is best to wet the root ball with water for easier release from the container.

If the plant and old container are not too heavy to be lifted, turn them upside down with one hand on top of the dirt to support the root ball.  Tap on the pot to loosen it from the root ball and pull it away from the roots.  Take care not to break your pot. (Be sure and clean the old pot with soap and water before using it for another plant to make certain no bacteria are transferred.)

The roots should look whitish in color.  If they are dark or smell bad, then your plant may have a disease, or you may be over watering and causing root rot.  Should this be the case, separate the ailing plant from your others.  Once a plant is nursed back to health, it can rejoin the other plants.

With a sharp knife, scissors or pruning sheers, trim the roots.  This aids the plant in establishing new feeder roots and absorbing fertilizer and other nutrients from the soil and water.   Surprisingly, you can remove as much as a third of the roots and the plant will be fine.  If any roots are growing in a circular path, cut them off as well or the plant may strangle itself.  If the root ball is very thick, make several vertical cuts in it to stimulate new root growth.

Use your own judgment as to the size of the new pot.  Usually, the next size up is sufficient.  If your plant is a fast grower, you may want to go up two sizes.

Place a coffee filter (my favorite), tightly meshed screen, good stones or part of a clay shard over the hole/holes in the bottom of the new pot so the soil won’t wash out.

There are two schools of thought on whether or not to put gravel in the bottom for drainage and/or charcoal to keep the soil sweet.  If the pot has drainage holes, the gravel is unnecessary and only takes up space that the roots could use.  It is the gardener’s choice.

Fill the pot with enough dirt so the top of the root ball is about an inch below the rim in the center of the pot.  Pack enough dirt around the plant to support it.

Water thoroughly to remove the air pockets in the dirt.

Trim the leaves of your newly potted plant approximately as much as you trimmed the root ball.

Lastly, place your plant in a shaded, cool spot and keep it watered to prevent transplant shock.  In a few days, move the plant to a permanent home according to its light requirements.

Just think, if you repot several plants at one time, you will only have one mess to clean up.  Plus, your sense of accomplishment will be all the greater.  Your reward will be greener, fuller plants and flowers. 

 

This article was reviewed by Larry Dingman, dear friend and horticulturist.

 


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