Gardening: Dividing Perennials Home: greenlightwrite.com featuring |
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Gardening: Dividing Perennials Home: greenlightwrite.com featuring |
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Perennials are plants that return year after year without the gardener having to replant fresh seeds or more plants. I love perennials and have them almost exclusively throughout my garden. They may cost a few cents more to initially purchase but once they're established, they will return again and again with the proper care. As they expand in size, most perennials need to be divided to prevent overcrowding and stimulate new growth above the ground as well as beneath the soil. Also, over time the nutrients in the soil may become depleted and/or weeds can become hard to pull if the perennial is too compacted. The best part about dividing your plants is that you'll get more plants to either increase your particular flower patch, or you may have extra plants to share with your neighbors and friends. Many books will tell you to divide your perennials every few years. However, in my opinion, every plant should be treated on an individual basis. If it is flowering and doing well and doesn't look overcrowded, you might want to wait to disturb it. On the other hand, if it looks sickly or just isn't producing, it may be time to divide.
When The best time to divide your perennials is August or September in regions where the winter is not so harsh. This gives any newly planted “dividends” time to acclimate to the cooler fall weather and become established before they are hit with cold temperatures, which brings on dormancy. If you have severe winter weather, the spring will be better for division. It gives the new plants more months to establish a good root system before the harsh temperatures invade your area. It's best to avoid dividing in the heat of the summer when the plants are working hard to produce flowers and leaves.
How to Divide Since the root system is the key to successful division, make sure you dig beyond the root ball by one or two inches - a good 8 to 12 inches from the center of the plant is a good rule of (green) thumb. Once you've dug all around the plant in a complete circle, it should be relatively easy to raise the root ball by inserting the shovel back into the dirt and pulling back on the handle toward your body. Do this all around the plant, then lift the plant out of the ground as you try not to damage the roots.
Types of Roots Fibrous root systems that bunch together are called clumpers. If your fingers are strong enough, you might be able to pull these rootballs apart with your hands. But using a shovel to quarter the clumpers or inserting two pitchforks back to back and prying them apart works best. Some of the tougher, stronger clumpers may require a saw to get them apart. Just make sure each divided piece has a section of woody root. The size of the divisions depends upon how much room you have for planting, tiny divisions for a smaller garden (which may result in more plants) and larger divisions for a larger area.
At this time, inspect all root types for disease and/or insect intrusion. Worms are the most common problem. If the root appears healthy, look for the "growth points.” With a sharp knife or pruning sheers, cut the root into pieces three to four inches long, making certain there is at least one growth point on each piece. Plant your divisions of rhizomes and tubers about 12 inches apart, giving them plenty of room to grow. Plant rhizomes no deeper than two inches, while the growth point of the divided tubers should just peek out of the soil.
How to Plant Newly Divided Plants Be sure to prepare the soil in which you will plant each division at least 12 inches deep, meaning mix peat moss or compost with the earth. It is best to mix fungicide dust as well as a growth hormone or transplanting-type fertilizer into the soil because is will help prevent shocking the roots. Bone meal is an excellent product to add for good growth. Dig the hole wide enough to prevent over crowding of the roots, which can stunt or slow the plant's overall growth. Shield your new divisions from direct sunlight and keep evenly moist until established. Be careful of over watering in soil with poor drainage or under watering in soil with good drainage. Trim the leaves so that the plant's energy can go toward creating new roots. It may sound a tad complicated, but once you start propagating, your reward will be many new, free plants! This article was reviewed by Larry Dingman, dear friend and horticulturist. |
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