Shopping for Bulbs

If shopping locally, look for bulbs that are healthy - without mold or dry rot.  The best bulbs will be evenly shaped with no soft spots or fungus.  They should be firm to the touch. 

Bulbs come in large, medium and small sizes.  The larger the bulb, the larger the flower will be. 

The tunic (the thin, paper-like covering that some bulbs have) may be torn or even gone.  This won't hurt the bulb. 

Should you buy bulbs before you're ready to plant, be sure to store them in a paper bag (plastic doesn't breath), with a label telling their name and maximum height.  They might rot if they get wet or will die if they dry out, so the best place to store them is in the refrigerator.  NOT IN THE FREEZER.

If shopping through a website or a catalog, you may get the best deal on quantity buying if you share the cost with a friend or friends.  (That's what I do.)

Planting Bulbs

The best time for planting bulbs that will withstand the bitter cold of winter and bloom in the spring is in the fall,  generally when night time temperatures are between 40˚ and 50˚ F.  The roots will become established, making for a stronger plant.

Choose well-drained soil and a sunny location.

Space large bulbs at least 6 inches apart.  Smaller bulbs can be planted as close as 2 inches apart.

Generally the hole you dig should be 2 to 3 times as deep as the diameter of the bulb you're planting.

Put some bulb fertilizer and / or bone meal in the hole and cover it with a bit of dirt so the bulb doesn’t actually touch the fertilizer, which might burn it.

As a preventative against underground insects, ground oyster shells can be placed in the hole.  Critters don't like the feel of the shells on their bodies and won't eat your bulbs as readily.  You could also use a dusting sulpher.

Make sure that the roots are pointed downward.  If you can't tell which is the root end, plant the bulb sideways so it will have an easier time righting itself.  Any growth should be at the top.

As with all plantings, water thoroughly to remove air bubbles in the soil.

Try mulching to protect the plant in case of a hard freeze and thaw weather pattern.  The tips of bulbs that emerge at this time are particularly vulnerable to damage.

Should you come across some bulbs you'd forgotten about, go ahead and plant them.  They may be old and not come up, but they might just surprise you.  Be sure they are in a sunny location with even watering.

Creative Planting

As with chocolate, the more the better.  Plant as many bulbs as you feel you want to spend money on to achieve a full, rich look.

If you plant your bulbs in an area that already has existing perennials, take the height of those perennials into account.  Naturally, you will have the tallest plants or bulbs in the back, gradually decreasing size toward the front.  The flowers from the bulbs will splash your winter killed / dormant areas with color in the spring.

It is best to group bulb colors together for a greater impact when blooming.  But remember that this is your garden and if you  like the result, that's perfect.  If you don't, dig up your bulbs at the bulbs at the end of the season and replant them to a better color-coordinated location in time to bloom the following spring.

Plant your bulbs in a serpentine pattern, meaning curving rows, not straight.  These aren't potatoes.  If you do want to plant along a sidewalk or straight edge, then buy enough bulbs to plant at least three parallel rows deep for a deep, full look.

If you can, choose bulbs that have different blooming times or stagger the planting time by 10 to 14 so you have extended blossoms in the spring.

If you want a more natural look, you can gently mix a variety of bulbs in a paper bag then also very gently, toss them on the ground, planting them where they fall.  This is called "naturalizing."

Many bulbs are fine for years at a time and require only water, sun and fertilizer applied in the early spring just before the foliage starts to sprout above ground.

Enjoying Your Flowers

If you decide to bring your blossoms into the house in the spring, be sure and cut only enough greenery and stem you will need. 

Dead head (remove) any flowers that have died and let the remaining foliage die back naturally.  The bulb will get its energy for the coming year from the photosynthesized leaves left on the plant.

There are two schools of thought on folding back the remaining foliage and securing it with rubber bands or tying it with other leaves.  It does look tidier, but it may inhibit the transfer of energy to the bulb.  Think of it as a science experiment.  Try it both ways. 

The best part of spring flowering bulbs is that they flower in the spring!  Duh.  Seriously, when the winter has left everything brown and gray and your eye catches those first colorful blossoms, you'll be very pleased you took the time and small effort to make it all happen.  I'll be surprised if you don't add a few more bulbs each year.  I know I do! 

Can't wait for spring? Check out our directions for forcing bulbs.